Eternal restaurants - Part II

The continuation of the story about the legends of the Belgrade gastro scene

Friday 30th of November 2018

cover image

Being in the category of the most popular restaurants in Belgrade is a great honor. Fame lasting for more decades also carries great responsibility because long-term success did not come from an intelligently created business plan. Not even overnight. The work makes a difference between hardworking ones and lazy ones. And yet, there are many hardworking ones to whom success is constantly evading. There are many of them who respect the recipe for winning the audience over, but they are not even close to the best restaurant.

They are not because they do not have a host who welcomes guests identically as in his home. They are not the best because they do not have that something in their facility that brings an incredible feeling. To be both beautiful and practical; neatly and relaxed. And well known, yet completely different. Also, it is not the point if the food is delicious if served by surly or "immovable" waiter. Even the top ambiance is not worth if there is no soul. Anyone who takes his time, money and trust deserves a perfect treatment.

This restaurant can compete with the most famous hospitality institutions in the world without any doubt. The prestigious awards would not miss out for sure. But this restaurant does not have such ambitions because it does not care about flattering compliments. It wants to impress its guests all the time. You know it for sure. There is only one word in the title. It does not make false plans but real magic. Kovac.

The place where you are like at home, but it is more beautiful because you are a guest. The interior is nothing but a deep bow to the past but from the future point of view. Hand embroidery as a pride, not as a detail. The wormth of natural wood and unreal fusion of pleasant tones are there because your satisfaction is an imperative. Food in Kovac cannot be described with ordinary "great". Essays can be written about it. Sincere ode to specialties is not a city story. This address is spoken and written about far beyond borders of Serbia. Exclusively in superlative. It has always been so since 1932.

The quest for the concept of perfect catering continues on the Zemun Quay. A few steps away from the Danube. Heaven on Earth. A restaurant where people bring important business partners. Friends who moved out and love to talk about how beautiful everything is out there. Well, we also have a response to global trends. Here is better because of the famous "that something". In this restaurant, you cannot hear criticism about Serbian love for meat because the fish is in the foreground. Of course, it is Saran.

More than a good restaurant. Moderate romantics. Ready-to-wear fashion. It is not a matter of prestige or elite because this restaurant was opened by a fisherman from Zemun more than a century ago, with the aim of giving everybody the opportunity to taste a special fish soup. According to the same recipe, it is still cooked today. Eating healthy means consuming quality food. Every specialty in Saran is prepared like that. This is not the end here. When they win over all your senses with food, they immediately switch to a Bohemian style party. A little bit of wine, a little bit of music. It all goes round and round. It has been like that for a century. We hope - forever.